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UNDERSTANDING
FLEAS
AND HOW TO
CONTROL THEM
Understanding
The Flea Life Cycle
 The
only way you will ever successfully treat your
dog or cat or other small animal for fleas is if
you understand the life cycle of the flea so
that you can understand the ways you must treat
the flea to get rid of him and the misery and
diseases he brings with him.
Although there are hundreds of species of fleas,
the flea in the United States is the cat flea or
the Ctenocephalides felix and it infects
cats, dogs, humans, and other avian and
mammalian hosts.
There are several different stages of a flea’s
life cycle, and the time it takes to go through
each stage will be dependent on a variety of
things including environment like temperature
and humidity and finally an available host.
When conditions are right, this life cycle can
be completed in just 14 days and can be the
start of tens of thousands of the itchy little
things.
The right condition for a flea is a warm, moist
environment and climate. And the main food for
a flea is the blood of the animal that has
become its “host.” This host is most often a
mammal with avian species becoming the host
about 5% of the time. The method the flea uses
to obtain the blood it needs to feed on is very
similar to other skin biting parasites. Their
saliva contains an ingredient that softens the
host’s skin to allow for easier penetration and
thus feeding. This saliva is irritating and
allergenic, causing itching, scratching and all
the other signs your pet (or you for that
matter) shows when infected by fleas or Flea
Allergy Dermatitis.
Fleas have four stages in their life cycle:
Egg:
Flea eggs will typically fall off of the host,
landing on your carpets, bedding, floors and
soil. They hatch anywhere from a day or two up
to a few weeks depending on conditions (remember
they like warm, moist conditions best). The
larva uses a hard spine on the top of the head
(chitin tooth) to break out of the egg. This
spine or tooth will disappear as the flea
matures.
Larva:
This is actually 3 stages within this larger
stage. Depending on the food present and other
conditions this stage will last between five and
18 days. The Larva(e) are white and almost
transparent, they are about ¼” long and use
small hairs on their body to move. They consume
the feces of the adult flea which is mostly
dried blood and other organic matter (like
sloughed off skin) they find in the carpets and
bedding etc. At the end of this stage they spin
a cocoon and “pupate.”
Pupa:
Just before the flea becomes an adult, it
emerges from the cocoon they have been in for
anywhere from three (3) to five (5) days to a
year or more. The great difference in the
amount of time spent in the cocoon is dependent
on conditions. Things like warm temperatures,
high humidity, or even emissions of carbon
dioxide from a passing animal can signal to the
flea it is time to come out.
Adult:
At this stage the flea is known for its jumping
abilities to aid in moving onto a host. They
also have hair-like bristles on their body and 3
pairs of legs that assist in navigating through
the host’s hair, fur and feathers. The female
flea lays white, roundish eggs, and each female
can lay up to 50 eggs per day.
The most important thing that this information
can tell you is that the life span of a flea can
be quite varied, so they can survive anywhere
from a few weeks to a couple of years. In order
to stay on top of the problems they cause you
and your pets you must remain vigilant. With all
the variety of products and methods you have the
tools you need to do just that.
Fleas are prolific, in just one month, it is
estimated that if you have ten (10) adult
females they can generate 270,000 more fleas.
These tough little creatures really know how to
survive. They prefer the temperature to be 65
to 80 degrees with the humidity between 75 –
85%. So you may live in an area where “flea
season” is year round.
For every one (1) flea you see or remove from
your pet, there are approximately ten (10) more
in around your home. You can see how quickly
you, your dog and your house can become hostage
to a flea infestation. So even if you have
successfully rid your pet of fleas there may be
larvae waiting to hatch. So you must keep on
top of a complete program to keep fleas
CONTROLLING FLEAS
Chemical Controls
If
you live in a mild climate you will need to be
vigilant about fleas year round.
The trick with fleas is to stay on top of them;
they can be stubborn to get rid of once they are
embedded in your house.
 If
you already have fleas you need to control, it
may take more than one product to stop the flea
life cycle, it may be dangerous/toxic to your
pet etc. if you use more than one product at a
time, you should check with your veterinarian
about what you will need to interrupt the fast
growing fleas population.
It might take you several treatments to
eradicate the fleas from your yard and home.
For monthly products, keep a reminder system.
Try giving medications the same day of every
month. Place the reminder in your calendar or on
your refrigerator.
If you are using a monthly product, make sure
you give it every month on the same day. Keep a
reminder in your calendar because the benefit of
the monthly product will quickly lose its
ability to repel the fleas and you may start a
flea infestation all over again.
If you have a dog that gets wet frequently,
whether through bathing, swimming or just
getting a good soaking in the rain, you should
use a “waterproof” product, for example
Revolution®, or
Frontline Plus® or “water resistant”
products -
Advantage® or K-9Advantix®. If you are
using another type of product you may need to
reapply (remember to follow your vet’s
instructions and/or the product instructions)
Keep in mind when using the above listed
products, the instructions may tell you to avoid
water for a few days.
There are products on the market that add heart
worm prevention and tick control into the flea
control (Advantage- Plus®), and (Revolution®.)
These are generally oral medications. As with
any other product like this you should talk with
your vet about what will be the best product for
your animal.
Size (body weight) and type of pet (dog or cat),
and age make a large difference in which
products are appropriate for your pet. Be
careful not to treat your pet with the wrong
product. The “spot-on” and oral products are
usually sold in in packets that include several
months of product. When you store them, make
sure you keep the packaging so that you will
know what you are treating your pet with (this
is particularly important if you have more than
one pet)
To decide what product you
should be using on you pets you should discuss
your particular situation with your veterinarian
so that they can help you consider the risk of
exposure and your lifestyle before you choose a
product.
In my opinion and experience, the products that
work the best are the topical “spot on” and the
oral products, these in combination with
mineral salts in the carpets and furniture and
outdoors keep my home and menagerie flea free.
The topical or “spot-on” products require that
you only squeeze a small amount of chemical onto
the skin between the shoulder blades of your pet
and the medicine is absorbed and distributed
throughout the body.
Keep in mind here I said “in my opinion”,
please check with your veterinarian before
you use any product on your animals.
You need to keep in mind that getting fleas out
of your carpet, beds, and furniture is much
harder than using a product that will help keep
you and your pet happy and in good health
Keeping You Safe When Using Spot-on fleas
medication
Never use dog flea medication on a cat
Make sure to apply the spot-on medication where
your pet cannot reach it (between the shoulder
blades is good on a dog) to lick the medication.
Make sure you use the right product for the
weight of your pet. It really matters so you
don’t overdose your pet.
Only combine flea products unless your
veterinarian instructs you to do this. Toxicity
can happen when you combine these chemical.
If you use OTC or veterinarian prescribed fleas
treatment, use only as directed on the package.
If you use any product that includes pyrethrin
or permethrin on a cat or small dog, monitor
your animal for 24 hours after administration.
Again, use these products as directed, never
assume because they are easy to obtain and easy
to apply that you are not using a “chemical”
that requires care when using it.
Other products
There are other products available, but these
tend to be more difficult to use or aren’t quite
as safe depending on your lifestyle. If you
choose to try one or more of these products,
just like with any other fleas program you
should discuss this with your veterinarian.
Impregnated fleas collars –
these OTC rubber-like collars have the
insecticide as part of the rubber. The problem
with this method is that there is a dust that
can get into your eyes if not handled properly,
and are not safe if children are small and
probably will come in contact with the collar.
(The dust from these collars are a
cholinesterase inhibitor.)
Shampoos and Powders
–
these really only provide a temporary fix to the
problem of infestation. They will help you to
rid your pet of the fleas they currently have in
their fur but the benefit tends to wear off
quickly. You cannot use these products on
kittens and puppies under six (6) weeks. You
will need to be careful not to get these
products in your pets eyes.
With both of these products you should monitor
your pet as some animals can have a contact
dermatitis on their skin. Cats may become ill
from licking their fur after these products have
been applied. You need to be careful where you
use these products and if your cat can get onto
your kitchen counters you need to monitor them
so that humans do not ingest the insecticide
that has fallen onto the counter. Another issue
is that children may pet an animal and transfer
the insecticide into their mouths.
Aerosol Flea Bombs –
hese should only be used if the area that is
going to be treated is vacated of all animals
(also fish) and humans. You should cover
counters and furniture, remove plants. If you
are using it in a garage, make sure you remove
all motor vehicles, kids toys (like bikes etc.)
The active ingredients (DDVP, propxiur, diazinon,
and carbaryl)-, and in the bombs is extremely
toxic to animal and humans and can cause long
term health problems.
Organic Flea Control
Dietary Remedies
There are many products on the market that will
assist in controlling fleas and are natural or
organic for your pet. Food supplements (garlic
and yeast) that combine food nutrients with
numerous health-supportive properties that will
boost your pet’s immune system and give them
healthy skin and coat. The extra benefit of
this supplement is that it is also reported to
repel fleas. Also available is a homeopathic
flea and bug bite remedies that will naturally
give your pet relief from the itching of flea
and other insect bites.
Flea combs
These combs come in all shapes sizes and can be
either plastic or stainless steel. They have
extremely tiny teeth that will dislodge fleas
and eggs from your pets coat. This method of
flea removal works best on short coated dogs,
but with patience you will get the hang of flea
removal on your long or thick coated dog.
This method of removal will immediately reduce
the flea population You will remove fleas with
each pass of the comb. The best way to rid
yourself of the fleas after combing them out is
to rinse the comb in a bucket of warm soapy
water after each pass. You will want to keep at
least a generalized count of the number of fleas
you are combing out, because if the number
increases sharply you will know that you need to
increase your fleas fighting efforts.
Flea Bath
Or flea dip as it is sometimes referred to, is
another piece of the flea control program. It
is particularly necessary for long or thick
coated animals. What you are doing here is
drowning the fleas, and an good fleas shampoo or
soap will increase your flea control efforts.
This is something that you can also have someone
else take care of, your groomer may have fleas
shampoo available or you can provide the
shampoo, and there are pet stores that offer
fleas dips for your animals. You should always
check to see if they are using organic products.
Home and Outdoor Control
The
most effect flea control I have found to remove
fleas from carpets, furniture and outdoor spaces
(you must remove the fleas from your yard or
they will just re-enter on your pet or on your
shoes and the cuffs of your pants.) is
a
Borate mineral powder. It is
completely safe for pets and children. You can
even use is as a supplement to brushing or flea
combing your dog. I place it into a fertilizer
spreader and put it into my grass just like I do
fertilizer. It should be added to flower beds
and even in the cracks in sidewalks, patios and
decks. Anywhere where fleas may have gotten a
strong-hold into.
Establish a Flea Control Program
Fleas
control is a ongoing process and you will need
to be vigilant to keep fleas off your pets, your
furniture, your yard etc. But it is much easier
to maintain a flea control program than to have
to try and rid your life of a large infestation.
Your Pet
Beside using the products
described above you should:
Keep your pet healthy
One of the best things you can do to eliminate
fleas is to make sure you keep your pet
healthy. Fleas are drawn to animals that are
not well so make sure you monitor your pets
health. In fact if you have a sudden outbreak
of fleas, you may want to check out your pet’s
health, as an outbreak may signal that things
are out of balance.
Keep your pet clean
The dirtier, sour-smelling, and unhealthy your
pet is the more likely they will also have a
colony of fleas in residence. Use any of the
shampoo or soap products on the market either
chemical or organic as you choose, but make sure
you are bathing your pet regularly. Yes, that
even goes for cats, bunnies, guinea pigs, they
might be unhappy about a bath, but it won’t kill
them to put up with it once in a while.
Use a Repellant
Whether you choose to use a spot-on product or
organic spray on products or a collar etc. This
is a vital step in keeping your life flea-free.
Make sure you keep track of the life span of the
product you choose so that you can reuse replace
the product at the proper time, keep the flea
control continuous.
Regular Sleeping Area
Fleas like to accumulate on your pet when they
sleep, so you should make sure that you de-flea
your pets sleeping spot. Adding the borate
powder to the seams or inside edges of the pets
bed and regular washing of the any blankets or
toys will help in the fight against fleas.
Your Home
Flea removal
- Whether you use a flea bomb or borate powder
or the heat method* you must make sure your home
is flea free or you are not going to be
successful at breaking the life cycle and then
eradicating fleas.
*Heat method – remove yourself, your pets, your
plants (don’t forget fish aquariums, and small
animals) close everything up and then turn the
heat up to about 90 degrees and go somewhere fun
for the day. Fleas survive in heat up to about
80 degrees so this method should kill the fleas
in your home. I can’t tell you one way or the
other whether this in fact works, but I have
been told that it does. What do you have to
lose by trying it, a larger heating bill is
about all.
A dehumidifier
- will also help in keeping your house
flea-free. If you can get the humidity in your
home down to less than 70 percent the fleas will
leave for better living conditions as they
prefer to live in mild humid areas.
Vacuum -
several times a week and don’t forget to get
into the cracks and crevices of the your home
and furniture, even the beds. If you have a bag
vacuum, either add borate powder to it or make
sure you dump it after each use. You can also
place it into a plastic bag and seal it tightly
so oxygen can’t get into it, thus cutting of the
fleas oxygen supply. If you have a bagless
machine you should empty the contents into a
plastic bag and seal it before throwing it away.
So, there you have it, fleas can become a huge
hard-to-deal with problem if you let it get out
of hand. If you start from the beginning when
you first bring a pet home you should never be
troubled by fleas. If you did’t started from
the beginning, you can still work hard and
eliminate them and then continue to keep on top
of them and you too will have a flea-free life.
Don’t forget to check with your veterinarian
about what products and methods will be best
for your pet and your lifestyle, with the
huge array of products both organic and
chemical you will find the perfect method
for you and your pet.
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